Imagine a place where coffee-colored rivers meander through floodplain forest, narrow channels leading to ox-bow lakes choked with floating sedges, ferns, water lettuce and water hyacinths. The forest is varied – in places, towering trees reach for the sky; in other places, multitrunked banyans jostle for space with thickets of bamboo.
(L) A giant huimba tree (Ceiba samauma), and yes, that is an adult person standing on one of the buttresses! (R) Sunset on the Tapiche River. Photos courtesy of Manda Maggs.
The rivers are alive. They shrink with the dry season, and then grow and grow as the rainy season starts, spilling over their banks and into the forest beyond. They are alive with fish, everything from tiny tetras to the giant arapaima or paiche, as it is known locally. They are alive with gray and pink river dolphins, abundant river turtles of several species, and with spectacled and black caimans. They are alive with the critically endangered Amazonian manatee, and the much more common anaconda. They are alive with other animals as well. Multiple species of swallow patrol for flying insects, anhingas and cormorants feast on the abundant fish, odd-looking horned screamers patrol the banks and the floating vegetation, and kingfishers give their rattling call as they fly ahead of your boat. A dozen species of herons and egrets add to the show. As dusk falls, the night patrol comes out – fishing bats skim the surface of the water, honing in on the ripples of fish swimming just below the surface. Nightjars give their liquid burble calls, and fireflies coordinate their flashes in the river-edge vegetation.
River edge birds of the Tapiche Reserve. From top left to bottom right - all photos courtesy of Manda Maggs.
Row 1: Three species of swallow perch together above the water - white-winged (the ones with the most white), white-banded (black with white chest band, southern rough-winged (far right center). Horned screamers on riverside vegetation.
Row 2: Horned screamer in flight; ringed kingfisher (1 of 5 species found in the reserve).
Row 3: Green-and-rufous kingfisher; Amazon kingfisher
Row 4: Cocoi heron in flight; Cocoi her at water edge
Row 5: Capped heron; turkey vultures (one of 4 species of vulture in the reserve).
The real stars of the rivers and lakes are the giant otters, however. Several family groups divide up the space and communicate with surprisingly loud calls. It is easy to see where they like to hang out – muddy slides down steep riverbanks, piles of fish scales and bones, overland trails between lakes.
Giant otters at Tapiche. Photos courtesy of Arnaud Simorre.
In the forest, life abounds as well. Thirteen species of primates co-occur here. Stub-tailed, red-faced, orange-furred uakari monkeys look like something out of a Maurice Sendak children’s book. Dawn is announced by the roars of copper-colored howler monkeys, while monk saki monkeys look like unbelievably sad elderly gnomes with silvery-tipped long black hair. Two species of capuchin monkeys are the brainy ones among the primates – they are curious and creative. Squirrel monkeys romp through the forest in troops of 100 to 200 animals. Several bird species regularly accompany them, catching insects that are flushed out of hiding by the foraging monkeys. They have to be careful though, because a large troop can also draw the unwelcome attention of the mighty but endangered harpy eagle. There is a nesting pair here.
Primates of the Tapiche Reserve - top left to bottom right. All photos courtesy of Mandy Maggs.
Row 1: White-faced capuchin leaping between trees; white-faced capuchin checking out the photographer
Row 2: Red uakari monkey with its bald red face; squirrel monkey
Row 3: Squirrel monkey; red howler monkeys
Row 4: Monk saki monkey; red howlers in the rain; more monk saki monkeys
Row 5: Brown capuchin monkey; Monk saki monkey
Row 6: Saddle-backed tamarin; brown capuchiin monkey with Inga seed pod
Other creatures live here too – numerous species of amphibians and reptiles, several hundred species of birds - many difficult to see in the forest understory, a virtually unknown host of insects of all types, and mammals - rodents, opossums, anteaters, peccaries, deer, tapir and the apex predator of the forest, the jaguar.
This place exists, but its future is in peril. This is the Área de Conservación Tapiche (ACT), or the Tapiche Reserve. Five hours by boat up the Tapiche river from the town of Requena, its remoteness is what has protected it for many years. Increases in the human population of the area, and the greater availability of affordable boat motors are chipping away at that remoteness. Constant vigilance is needed to combat illegal fishing, hunting and logging. Even the Lord of the Lakes, the black caiman, isn't immune from human persecution. The area is noted for having a large river turtle population and during nesting season nightly patrols are necessary to collect newly laid eggs and transport them to a protected artificial beach. From July through September 2024, over 4,200 eggs were collected and have since hatched out. Turtle eggs fetch high prices in the cities, and egg collectors think only of the moment, and not the future, so all available eggs are taken, along with any adult turtles that might be encountered on the beaches (all female, of course).
Top left to bottom right; All but last two photos courtesy of Mandy Maggs; swimming caiman photo courtesy of Arnaud Simorre, final photo courtesy of Emerson Torres.
Row 1: an artificial beach for relocation of turtle eggs is under preparation; Some of 2023's nesting season hatchlings, ready for release.
Row 2: A baby Podocnemis unifilis (locally called taricaya) is released into aquatic vegetation; babies checking out their new home.
Row 3: A "thank you" look!; A black caiman mother warns the photographer away from her nest.
Row 4: This black caiman was a victim of illegal hunting. Shot somewhere upriver, it probably dove to the bottom and eventually died, only to come floating by the reserve dock sometime later, and after the poacher had given up on finding it. It had been dead long enough that the meat could not be salvaged. A magnificent animal dead and wasted for the cost of a bullet.
This special area was first protected by a Peruvian visionary, Murilo da Silva Reis, who saw the potential of the site, and who loved the wildlife that inhabited it. For over 10 years, he was its chief guardian and promotor, using funds from ecotourism to finance operations. Then the Covid-19 pandemic hit, and tourism dried up entirely. Shortly after, Murilo passed away from an undiagnosed illness, with management of the site passing to two volunteers who stayed on throughout the pandemic. When travel restrictions were lifted in Peru, both had to leave the country for various reasons, and they faced a conundrum. Could they find someone to take over management of the site, or should they tear down the existing facilities so that they wouldn’t become a base for loggers, fishers and hunters when the site was abandoned?
In late 2022, I started to receive emails from various researchers who had been to the site – people from museums, universities, and conservation entities, asking if I might know someone who could step in. I visited the Tapiche reserve in October of that year, was impressed by the nature and potential, and upon my return to the US, we had a Project Amazonas board meeting and voted to take on the management of the site, starting in November/December 2022.
Top row: a beautifully patterned vine snake, Siphlophis cervinus (photos courtesy of Alvin Helden)
Bottom row: A tropical indigo snake (Drymarchon corais). Mandy Maggs and station manager Aidan Colligan admiring this magnificent individual (photos courtesy of Mandy Maggs)
It was a bumpy start, marked over the subsequent months with a complete change of reserve personnel, but the wrinkles have been largely ironed out. A big task in 2023 and into 2024 was building new facilities. With no income flow for the duration of the pandemic, the existing facilities were in dire shape. Fungi, termites and boring beetles care nothing about Covid-19, and only the toughest and most durable wood can withstand them. The “cabin” I stayed in on my first visit was a small two-story structure with most of the upstairs occupied by the bed. Access was via a ladder and a hole in the floor. The bathroom was downstairs. I was terrified that I might wake up in the night to go to the restroom, but forgetting where I was, fall through the hole. Fortunately, there was a wooden cover for the hole, but removing the cover, climbing down the ladder, visiting the restroom, then climbing up the ladder and replacing the wooden cover made nighttime calls of duty somewhat of a chore. Plus, the entire structure shook if I rolled over in bed, and the wooden stilts that supported the structure were severely rotted where they met the ground.
In 2023, we built three spacious tambos (cabins) with concrete pilings (the entire site floods to varying depths at high water), removing the existing cabins as the new structures were completed – the usable bits of wood from those were used for a new chicken coop. The new tambos were all built out of heavy wood that is highly rot and termite resistant and topped with durable plastic roofing sheets that last much longer than thatch (and which don’t give cockroaches a prime living spot). The plastic is also more durable and cooler than tin roofing. All three tambos have in-suite bathrooms, and a new brick-lined septic tank was put in to service them.
Three of the five macaw species found at the reserve. From top left clockwise. Scarlet macaw, red-bellied macaw, blue-and-yellow macaw (photos courtesy of Mandy Maggs)
2024 saw additional changes – a new two-story kitchen structure was completed with concrete floor and counters (all tiled), and two rooms upstairs for the cook and site manager. The old staff house was torn down before it had the opportunity to fall down. A dorm building was also built, and the adjacent bathroom block (2 showers, 2 toilets) was completely refurbished. An aluminum patrol boat was constructed and delivered to the reserve, and old boats and motors at the site were removed. At the time of this writing (December 2024), a new elevated walkway to the edge of the river is also being worked on.
There is still lots to do, but at least we have comfortable, clean accommodations for guests who are critical for bringing in funds for staff payroll, food, fuels for patrols, and who help us maintain a very visible presence at the reserve – critical for deterring poaching.
A few other notable birds of the reserve (all photos courtesy of Mandy Maggs)
Row 1: Wire-tailed manakin; blue-cheeked jacamar
Row 2: Hoatzin with white-cheeked jacamars (upper left corner); hoatzins
Row 3: Yellow-rumped cacique; greater ani
Projects for 2025 include (funding permitting) building a new staff house on the highest available spot overlooking the port area. This will also be a two-story structure, with restrooms, storage area, and workspace on the lower level, and individual staff rooms and an office on the upper level, with a balcony overlooking the river. We will also be looking at the possibility of putting in a well for a cleaner source of water rather than pumping water from the river into an elevated water tank (and yes, we are capturing rainwater off of the plastic roofs, but that can’t meet the need when there are long dry spells).
As can be seen in these graphics, the Tapiche reserve is is located in one of the most biodiverse spots on the planet. The diversity of fish, insects, reptiles, trees, other plants, fungi, bacteria and other organisms is almost certainly equally astounding. There are few places in the world that can be as easily accessed, and yet harbor such richness of life. This is a special location.
Please consider supporting the conservation and operation of this spectacular area, and the plants and animals that call it home. You can make a tax-deductible (for US residents) donation to Project Amazonas in several ways:
By check made out to "Project Amazonas" and sent to: Project Amazonas, 701 E Commercial Blvd, Suite 200, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33334, USA
By ACH transfer, or by making a planned donation from a tax-deferred account (IRA, 401(K), 403(B) or other tax-differed account - contact devon@projectamazonas.org for details)
By using Zelle or PayPal to send funds directly to TapicheJungle@ProjectAmazonas.org (Zelle has no fees for the sender or receiver, but PayPal does)
By donating to the Tapiche fund-raising site at: https://gofund.me/8f979250
If wish to have US tax donation documentation, please include your full name and address with whatever donation method you choose.
You can also support the Tapiche Reserve by visiting or volunteering in person. To do so, email TapicheJungle@ProjectAmazonas.org with your potential dates. For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, some extra $$$, and some advance planning, you can even take a float plane to or from the reserve.
What will be the priority use of donated funds?
· New staff housing with office, storage and workspace – estimated at $22K (concrete, rebar, wood, electrical and plumbing, roofing, labor and transport).
· Additional staff to serve as park guards.
· Solar panels – six 200W panels would meet most of the power needs on site – panels are currently ~$200 each.
· Deep cycle gel batteries (3) – these are the most durable and reliable batteries available in Peru, and cost ~$380 each.
· A 12-Volt freezer that can be used with solar panels/batteries for conserving food (it is a minimum 10-hour round trip to the nearest grocery store....) ~ $1,200.
· Drone with video capability (1) – this would be very valuable for quickly and effectively monitoring the lakes and rivers in the area. Considering the winding nature of the rivers, you can travel for 15 minutes by boat and end up being 100 yards from where you started on the other side of a huge river bend. Sending a drone up and over the isthmus would allow you to easily check for any illicit activity without wasting time and fuels. Price? Variable, but perhaps a drone maker would consider a donation?!
· Game cameras – these would be excellent for monitoring trails, recording both human and animal activity. Better quality cameras with Bluetooth capacity (for transmitting images to a phone) are around $200 each.
· Climbing gear – for locating cameras and signs well above easy access, cutting down on potential theft or vandalism. If you have climbing gear that you aren't using and can donate, we are happy to give receipts for in-kind donations.
· Water well – the soils are quite sandy, so water filtration through the soil should be good. Estimated cost $2K (submersible pump, well casing, labor, transport)
· Pontoon dock – the current dock is built on large catahua (Hura crepitans) logs. We really need a dock built with pontoons with docking spaces for each of the boats, and a roof to protect them from the weather. Bailing out boats after every rain is a chore, and the strong UV light of the tropical sun quickly takes a toll on seats and paint.
Non-priority items (a short wish-list):
· Canopy observation tower
· Kayaks
· A huge endowment (any billionaires out there?)
· Correction...any billionaires out there willing to donate 1-days worth of interest on their investments?